I have been living in Istanbul for 2 years, but have yet to experience this special month, or Eid in Istanbul as I have been travelling each year during this month. Before I moved here, my husband visited the vibrant Sultanahmet area during Ramadan, and spoke excitedly about the buzzing atmosphere there, and all my dreams about what Ramadan would be like in Turkey centred around this! So this year, when I could not feel much of a Ramadan vibe, or even see any change in lifestyle like people around me fasting or preparing for iftaar etc I couldnt help but feel a tad bit disappointed. I understood it was probably mostly down to the fact that I live in a largely secualr part of Istanbul (Besiktas). I knew that if I wanted to feel the Ramadan spirit, I would have to inject it myself, and that is what I have done by takig on ccertain iniatives like iftaar picnics and attending mass community iftaars (Read all about it in my previous posts).

One of the most exciting events for me in Ramadan this year though, was the iftaar picnic we had at the Blue Mosque, in Sultanahmet. We arrived at least an hour and a half before Maghrib salaah (dusk prayers), and already the large square, grassy patchy areas outside the musjid courtyard were filling up with what must be several thousand people by the end of the evening. There was a massive stage set up with a beautiful set for some speakers who were hosting a programme (Didn’t get what it was about as it was in Turkish!), but there were also some captivating salawat being read at one stage, which was lovely to listen to – or just have playing in the background as a treat to my subconscious mind!

We met a bunch of our friends there, and found a great spot to lay down our mats and our food to settle down before it was time to open our fast. The kids had a great time running around, enjoying being outside. there were lots of families, some really geared up with fold up tables and pots to cook Turkish cay (tea). It seemed like this was a regular event in any Turkish families calendar  – coming out here to break their fast together, in one of the most significant places in Istanbul- Sultanahmet square.

Before iftaar, I walked around the square to the pop up market that was set up – similar to the ‘Christmas Markets’ in most cities in Europe- this was Turkeys equivalent -the ‘Eid market‘ – rows of art/ craft stalls in wooden cabins as well as food stalls selling traditional Turkish Ramadan specialities such as “Ottoman sherbat” – a refreshing syrup drink made from a mix of flower extracts, fruits or herbs.

Eid Markets in Sultanahmet square

A few minutes before Maghrib (dusk prayers), we settled down on our picnic mats in the open air, under the dark sky and when we heard the beautiful adhaan from the Blue Mosque, opened our fasts together, passing around dates, water and fruit.

Largest iftaar picnic in Turkey

For the main meal, we shared around the dishes we brought from home (including being treated to delicious Indian food from a nearby restaurant!). Afterwards, we headed over to pray Maghrib salaah at the Blue Mosque. There was no jamaah (congregation)  for Maghrib (now expected- see my previous posts!) and it was quite crowded (also expected!) so we prayed in the courtyard which had rows of mats laid out. Theres just something about musjid courtyards that I love – like Masjid Nabawee in Madinah – always so peaceful to pray or relax in.

To end the evening we walked around again this time to find some Turkish cay (tea) and I tasted  “güllaç” for  the first time ( a Turkish dessert made with milk, pomegranate and a special kind of pastry especially consumed especially during Ramadan). By now the Taraweeh prayers had started and we could hear the beautiful recitation through the loudspeakers. Families still milled around, relaxing during the pleasant evening. The sad tradeoff we made when choosing to have iftaar in Sultanahmet was that we would have to commute back home (1 hour journey) during Taraweeh prayers jamaah, in order to get our little one home at a reasonable bed time, and therefore pray our salaah at home instead of together at the musjid.

Nonetheless, this was a spectacular experience and for me, Alhamdulillah truly captured the essence of Ramadan – sharing, unity, enjoying fulfilling our islamic obligations, being spiritual together – and a bonus – experiencing a new part of Istanbul life!

Injecting Ramadan spirit, one magical instance at a time,
M4D