musjid

Travel: Discovering Balat and Fener

It’s been ages since I’ve travelled across the Golden Horn for good old fashioned sightseeing so on a rare mild weather day recently, we headed over to explore the historic neighbourhoods of: Balat & Fenner in Istanbul, Alhamdulillah. I had this on my bucket list as it’s usually cited as the slightly lesser known tourist spots as well as being interested to see yet another different side to this rich, captivating city! 

Situated near Eminonu, on the European side of Istanbul, there are several buses headed in that direction and we took the 99 Bus.

Being a random Monday, there were tourists milling around but it was crowd free and restaurants were quiet making social distancing easy and feasible everywhere we went. 

Equipped with a  guide book and Google maps on our phone, we walked around the area, stopping for breakfast and later snacks (Pancake house).

Here’s the highlights from our 3 hour self tour:

Breakfast at Balat Antik Cafe – beautiful garden setting with a great menu for breakfast, coffees with fresh gozleme and juices on offer.

                                   

Walking along between the significant sights, we came across charming streets, colourful tables, beautiful settings to admire or sit down and enjoy. There are also quirky stores, really nice to browse around and support local designers and stores.                                                
Funny street art -very apt! 
                    
  

Greek Orthodox College: A really interesting story is about how when Conqueror Mehmet conquered Constantinople (Istanbul today) he granted immunity for the Church of St Mary to remain a Greek church and the signed order is in the church today. This was how Christians, Muslims and Jews lived alongside each other. 

Mesnevihane Tekkesi- musjid, lodge where sufism was taught. This is located on a rather steep hill – but worth the short walk up to see these places and the view. There is also a musjid up here if you need a prayer stop.

                                                     
 There’s plenty of cute cats and cafes here, you’ll never get enough of. Make sure you have your camera and good walking shoes! It’s a worthwhile visit if you have been here a while or on your third or subsequent trip to Istanbul and want to experience a different vibe in the city. The walk itself around the area between sites is probably around 45 minutes. Adding in leisurely stroll, snack and meal breaks and that’s how we spent about 3 hours here.
Have you been to Balat or will you be adding it to your travel itinerary for your next trip? (when safe and feasible!) Share with us your favourite thing about this neighbourhood below.
Exploring Istanbul, one amazing little spot at a time,
Taskeen, travel happy!

Creating the Ramadan spirit: Iftaar Picnicking in Istanbul

Our days are busy in Ramadan, and especially with iftaar being quite late in Turkey during Summer, it’s usually difficult to meet up with people. However one weekend, my friends and I decided to arrange an iftaar together -and the idea was formed to join in the local Turkish community who partake in these “Iftaar picnics” at beautiful spots such as the Blue Mosque, or in our case we went to what seems to be everyone’s favourite musjid  – Suleymaniye Mescit in Fatih.

Suleymaniye Camii at Sunset

This fitted well into my little movement to generate a special atmosphere in Ramadan as I was missing the strong ramadan ‘vibe’,  living in a largely secular part of Istanbul (read my previous post),  So I was really excited to get out of the house, meet my friends and have a new experience in opening my fast!

We arrived at the musjid (cami/mosque) about an hour before Maghrib (dusk), as the sky was slowly turning darker on a pleasantly cool Summer’s evening. Our setup was simple, we brought along picnic mats and a dish of food each, and laid out our picnic in the beautiful open grassy area outside the cami  courtyard. The place was magical – entire families were sprawled on the open lawns with their iftaar ‘tables’ prepared, children were running around happy to be outdoors and meeting their friends. While we waited for the time to open our fast, we relaxed and chatted amongst ourselves, soaking in the atmosphere and really enjoying the spirit of everyone being at that place for the same purpose- to worship Allah in fasting in Ramadan.

I took a quick walk around to behind the cami, where another fascinating scene met my eyes- at the local restaurant located there, were rows of tables set up, with at least 400 people receiving the iftaar packs from a set menu that was offered that day. It was quite interesting to see such a large scale iftaar in progress, and everything seemed really well organised.

When the adhaan went off for Maghrib salaah (prayer), I went inside the musjid to pray. There were a handful of ladies only, and some kind women offered me dates to open my fast as well. This time, there was a jamaah for Maghrib salaah inside the musjid (read my post on what usually occurs in Turkey at maghrib during Ramadan) , however the loudspeaker was turned off and we couldn’t hear it – and therefore sadly couldn’t participate in prayers in congregation! Later I noticed some ladies who were standing closer to the males, not in the demarcated women section – and in this way they could join the jamaah- lucky them!

Each of my friends brought a super special dish to share in our iftaar -we were lucky to have xx, homemade scones, homemade South African chocolate cake and even a middle east speciality: ‘karak’ chai (milky, spiced tea) to finish. Being outside, in the fresh air and with enjoyable company was amazing – probably one of the best iftaar I have ever had in my life!

We were discussing how come the concept of these iftaar picnics donot seem to be present in other places- such as South Africa for instance. Some possible reasons we mulled over included the lack of safety meaning needing to be indoors when its dark, as well as the fact that musjid courtyards there aren’t exactly set up for socialising – they are usually just the means to enter the musjid so such kind of setup just wouldn’t work currently.

Anyway, it was an incredible experience, one that will stay with me forever I’m sure, and I am so grateful for the opportunity.

Injecting the ramadan spirit, one experience at a time
M4D